It's About Carlo..

Just finishing up my article for Denver News about Italian activist Carlo Petrini, who I had the chance to interview during the Slow Money Gathering Boulder this April.  I came on this trailer about a documentary coming out exactly today featuring the Italian environmentalist/bio gastronome rock star himself!

Italian Canzone

In the high days of Queen, those gorgeous paraders of the World stage, Italy unveiled it's new wave of poets, skinny and talented young men and women singing about passion, love - found & lost. 

Don Backy

That's when, in my teens, I moved there with my family to a small seaside tourist town on the Tyrrhenian Sea.  Exposed to this glittering array of young Italian pop talents on the radio & in the dance clubs I, along with the rest of the country, fell in love.  On Sunday afternoons teenagers could go to the Discotheques and dance from 4-10 unaccompanied. Mostly they played American and English songs, Rolling Stones and Donna Summer but just as often, especially in the less sophisticated halls, the Italians like Celentano and folk hero, Fabarizio D'Andre.  Most beloved were the two Lucio's - Lucio Battisti and Lucio Dalla, unbelievable talents and captivating guides into the dreams of romance and poetic meaning, especially for blossoming fanciulle. They were two of my favorites. The top of the line was the music written and produced by lyricist Mogol and the inimitable singer Battisti and their hits permeated all of cool Italy from beach side cafe in Castiglioncello to the late night club scenes in Milano.

The video above though, is an iconic song from a singer songwriter who was part of the Celentao clan in the 60's, years before. Overshadowed by the egregious Mr. Celentano, he never quite recovered or became as famous as his contemporary.

His name is Don Backy. I heard his voice one afternoon on the radio, while  driving down the Aurelia at breakneck speed in a frightfully small car and was immediately consumed by the Italian melancholia bug. Stars in the eyes kind of thing.

 I was already hopelessly in love just as a matter of existence, Italy just pushed me over the precipice, thank god .

 So a few days ago I finally saw a picture of him. He was quite handsome of course, which I had suspected all along, otherwise I wouldn't have remotely considered our marriage in such detail in my adolescent dreams

In the Stone Age, before smart phones and the internet, they had little devices called cassettes the cover for which were printed on two sides. Apparently it was preferable to put scantily clad women on the front. Presumably it sold the music better. Never saw the face, only heard the voice and the poetry it so sweetly produced. So, me and my ratty little cassette, with boobs on the cover, that I was on occasion able to listen to in someone's car, created a world of drama & longing. Honestly, it seemed that everyone was in love in those days.

There was an aura of romance mixed with prosperity, not to mention sex and kind of a chivalrous vibe at that time in Italy, that was defined by the Italian love song.  It was a bit of a cocoon, I realize now. Many other things were going on: political unrest, Brigate Rosse.  But these things were the dark corners of an otherwise lyrical post-card pretty explosion. Those who lived it know my meaning. At that time Italy and Italians were sexy, at least for most of the world, if a bit over the top for Waspy Americans, who called them names in that deprecating manner that winners of war often do. No matter. There was no lack of charm & fun.

Returning to Don Backy. Bit of a silly name really. So, Italian though. Real name is Aldo Caputo, born in a town not too far from where I lived then. Exceptional, if nothing else by the number of artists who recorded the songs he wrote and then became famous. I'm thinking of the translations to something like 'Canzone'  and realize it might sound  too syrupy to the English ear ...

Nel più bel sogno, ci sei solamente tu                     In the most beautiful of dreams, only you exist
sei come un'ombra che non tornerà mai più             You are like a shadow that will never return
tristi sono le rondini nel cielo                     The Swallows are flying through the sky in sadness
mentre vanno verso il mare                                     As they make their way towards the Sea
é la fine di un amore                                               It's the end of our love

..but it was truly the height of sophisticated music story telling.

 I learned how to look at love, how to see beyond the horizon, how to dream, with those songs. It's true, they are outdated  listening to them now, but the memories of cold, winter beach days, my mind free to invent, - the smell of sea and salt, the promise of summer, -  figuring out all that love stuff....that just never gets old.

PS - Here is Adriano Celentano, at the famous Festival di San Remo competition, singing Backy's song. He went on to become famous world wide with his cocky grin and daddy-o swagger. Probably much better suited to fame than the seemingly sensitive soul he might have had a hand in suppressing  Maybe that's just conjecture from gossips, I'm not sure. 

Street Art and the MOP

Ernest Pignon-Ernest is French. He is an artist who photographs and creates street art. I think he is fabulous and just gotten to know him recently. I especially adore this work in Naples, one of my favorite cities. I love the way he has combined the street songs of the old women with the sounds of daily life - brings me back to Naples in a heartbeat, one of the most beautiful gritty, dirty, holy places in Europe.

Ernest Pignon-Ernest

EpE says this about his work,  'The aim of the insertion (picture) is both to make the place into a visual space and to work on it's memories, to reveal, disrupt and heighten it's symbolism'. Beautiful words.

With the Month of Photography coming up and specifically The Big Picture these words are very appropriate. MOP is when Mark Sink and his glorious gang wheat paste up not only Denver walls and streets but also connect all over the world with a devious plan to beautify it all. Gorgeous images in black and white will start to appear in Europe, Russia, who knows where else...Exciting stuff.

Mark Sink 

I think it's really interesting to look at this French artist, relatively unknown in the English speaking world, who has been doing this type of street art for decades. I like to imagine the progression of artists he might have inspired all these years. In fact there is a book out with the title "Before Banksy: Ernest Pignon-Ernest".

It's fascinating to read the concept, politics, history behind the art form.

What I know: This is what art can do and does. Inspire.

Personally, I am equally inspired by our Denver scene.

Coming soon. MOP

Eve

Eve and the Snake

A beautiful foto of street art in Naples by Rebecca Price Butler on her Tumbler blog

One Day Rome

Impressions

Colosseum

Vatican Square

Tourist

Summer

Tourist

Be Where You're At

Back in town and trying to gauge what has changed since I left four months ago.

Everything.

Nothing.

 It's almost as if I  astrotraveled through the night and remained in my Denver bed the whole time, arriving energized and ...

Be Where Ur At

happy to be here.

I left what had become almost unbearable and leaving brought me full circle... here.  On my return I am in a subtle but synchronistic mode. When I left, I was swimming against the current, like Fishies sometimes do and I knew from experience that traveling would balance things out. Indeed it made embracing the flow easier.

For those of us who classify ourselves nomads, Third Culture or Global Nicher's, traveling is not only an acquired taste. It is what has defined us likely since birth or childhood. Moving 'elsewhere' is our refuge when we need to sort things out. Everyone has their own bag of tricks, moving is part of our magic. My friends @DisplacedNation explain it well in their 'Constitution'.

Going back to Italy this time was good and bad, frustrating, serendipitous, frivolous, scary, disillusioning, grounding, eye opening and life confirming  - not to mention fun freeking fantastic. Bureaucratic misunderstandings made staying impossible for now, but what a wow experience on so many creative levels - human and spirit!

 I re learned once again picking up, leaving everything and diving head long into an adventure in a new country that 'tutto il mondo e paese', like the Italians are fond of saying. In some very trite and familiar sense it is what philosophers, writers and zen teachers everywhere shout out from their book covers. You don't really need to move to find out what it is that you already know, but it is a lot of fun.

I feel this with a longing and a recognition that is deep, deep in my traveling soul -like the taste of a childhood memory of luscious fruit. For now, the memory is strong and the longing not yet critical, which is the best place to be to experience the moment.

A Day @San Lorenzo - Traveling with Anima

At the San Lorenzo Flea Market today with Ani. Just a quick walk through because it was so hot I started feeling a bit wilted, had to head back to the hotel. Not of course without first getting a bite to eat at the inside market,

Porcchetta

where the meat, fish and vegetable vendors are. It's Ferragosto, so there were slim pickings as far as open stalls but there was still plenty of produce for sale for tourists and housewives alike. Meats (Mortadella, Prosciutto di Parma, Finocchiona Salami)

are always a source of hunger inspiring recipes. I noticed some of the vegetables stalls were really popular with the Chinese restaurant guys (well, I assume Chinese restaurants but maybe they ran Italian restaurants - I really don't know) picking out eggplant

and fish

Ani had a big breakfast at the hotel but I was starved and our Florentine friends suggested we had to try the Porchetta sandwich and the Lampredotto, which is a type of trippa with special sauce.

At the Leather Market, Ani had fun buying trinkets for her friends with the lily symbol of Florence and for herself, a lovely leather purse. It's her first (and it cost a whole lot of euro)...and very beautiful, hand crafted leather in  luscious cow eye brown with a long strap and gorgeous stitching.

Lunch @San Lorenzo

Liana

Photo acs hoitt-ramadani 

Fountains and Ancient Rocks - Traveling with Anima

We took a quick day trip to Rome to get the beads for Auntie Irene, a feat that we accomplished by mid afternoon.  I was also desperate to show Ani the Colosseum and at the end of the day after hours of walking in the heat, we were speechless before it.

I had not expected to feel so excited at the sight of it and yet, the closer I got  faint music (ok - The Gladiator, laugh all you want)  rushed through my head.

Ancient energy or the effects of heat stroke? We can only theorize...

Ani, by this time was tired and ready to head back home to Bagno Vignoni - on anyone's agenda Rome in a day is silly -  but we gave it a good try and have some great impressions to work with for our future projects.

A word on the gorgeous Roman water fountains: they are not only beautiful masterpieces but also serve to refresh and cool off travelers and citizens alike.

 It's true, that in Piazza Navona we were shooed away by the city guardiani but for the most part, the fountains are accessible, as long as you don't lounge in them and just give yourself a quick splash on the arms or face it seems to be de riguer for the inhabitants of the city.

Also, the Nasoni are all over Rome, all 2,500 of them!  A godsend to anyone spending time in the Eternal City, especially on a hot day in August.

@ the Spanish Steps

The water from the fountains that are located far and wide throughout the city is totally refreshing and safe to drink. We didn't know at first but after seeing people fill up their bottles (2 euro at the store) time after time and Romans taking sips for themselves throughout the morning we became wise.

Across from Osteria Le Streghe

Even in front of the Colosseum we found this one just before entering the Metro Station

which as a last note is a wonderful way to navigate Rome, easy and cheap, with plenty of policemen standing around watching out for problems and ready to serve if needed, fairly clean and free of hassles. Beautiful graffiti!

La Vasca

The other morning I came to Bagno Vignoni as usual and the Loggia was roped off.  Obviously as curious as anyone else I went to see what was going on to find that the Vasca was being cleaned.

Two fellows in the middle of the previously mysterious watery square who were outfitted with yellow (official I'm sure) galoshes and oversize brooms were scrapping off the green algae from the bottom and the sides of the pool.

It looked like a scene from an old film, watching them go about their business as if they in an urban parking lot instead of one of the most visited plots in the Val d'Orcia. Two days later, the stone gleaming and the good luck pennies finally visible at the bottom of the pool, everything was back to normal.

Just the Two of Us - Traveling with Anima

 This month at Circolo delle Mamme Viaggiatrici we decided to ponder and discuss what works best for us at 'vacation time': together with other children and families or concentrating on keeping it intimate - just the family nucleus.

For me it was an easy dialogue since I have only ever vacationed with my children alone.


As a single mom used to doing things 'on my own', I have always vacationed without husbands or significant other - just with the kids.  We haven't had the experience of inviting anyone to go with us or entertained going with anyone else.  The responsibility of making someone else's child happy for longer than a few hours is daunting for me and so I don't do it.

I do admire the variations that parents come up with to make vacationing with kids more comfortable and easy going.   I have friends who always travel in a 'pack' with their kids.  Of course, families with more than two kids already are a pack unto themselves, with rituals all their own which I find fascinating.  Usually each child gets to invite a friend on outings so that each one has a playmate to occupy them.  Fantastic idea. All the parent has to do is 'manage' the outing.  Applied to vacation time, it would be much the same as going to the Mall or roller skating or afternoon cooking school but more hours. I like it - but the thought of doing nothing but managing activity time slots, like a school teacher or benign traffic cop is not fun for me.

In America, there really isn't a lot of 'time' in vacation time anyway so we are talking about a few precious days here and there. In Italy, where Ferragosto means two whole weeks to spend together it takes on a whole different meaning.

The other day I met an American woman who has lived in Italy many years and has a daughter Ani's age. She told me that in Italy it is normal for the kids to be invited  on vacation with another family for a period of time, where you kind of give your kid away for a couple of weeks. Often of course it is also with grandparents or close friends, sometimes it is with families of school friends.  This year will be that girl's first experience staying away from her mom.  Although the American mother already said yes to two vacations for her daughter, she is a bit unsure how she really feels about it all. I expressed that I would be a little apprehensive, especially since my Girl is only eleven, even though it is culturally acceptable. I'll cross that bridge if and when we get there. 


 For now, I am a happily convinced 'vacation with your children on your own' mom. Yes, there are times where my children have bemoaned the lack of a 'partner in crime' so they are not bored.

 The point of my taking the time off to go on vacation is to be get to know one another better in an atmosphere that is not filled with daily routine. With the realization of how precious time is, it has been my choice to concentrate more on intimacy and the possibility of weaving together special moments to remember. Those lumps of boredom, when they come up, are a perfect way to see how kids deal with the unfortunate but very real fact that life is not always Disneyland.  Just figuring out  how to be still and listening to the heart movements of the world around you is also valid . Today, with the stress of working long hours and an ever frenetic lifestyle, even in the land of 'la dolce vita' - the pleasure of being present with my children outweighs the 'freedom' traveling in a group or with an additional child offers. Let's see what living in Italy will teach us about vacationing 'solo' in the future.  


To see how the other Circle moms spend their vacation time with their bebe's be sure to click through to visit Alessandra at Lali Viaggi, Valentina at Family Company and the effervescent Silvia with her Tripando blog post as soon as you can! Here's to a fantastic vacation!

Roof Top Views

Rooftops of Montalcino

In Montalcino for a class and looking out of the window during our break - these are just #phone pictures but look what an amazing view I have. Just doing a normal thing like taking a class with ten other people as if we were in some boring classroom or office but instead I'm in Montalcino where people come from all over the world to taste wine, food and indulge in the views!!!

Courtyard

Valley

The Cathedral

Mille Miglie 2012

La Mille Miglia 2012

What an exciting day today along the ancient via Cassia ! The Mille Miglia or 1000 Mile race - came through San Quirico d' Orcia which is a few miles up the street from us and we drove up for a quick visit to cheer on the participants in their beautiful machines.  Hundreds of Ferrari's, Porsche's, Mercedes, Bugatti and other cars passed us by with every kind of driver - young and a bit older and of all nationalities.

The famous Nuvolari Statue

 I remembered that the last time I saw the Mille Miglia, Susan and I were both preggers with our first children and quite giddy about the whole thing - being there and all and I felt the same today with Ani. Somewhere there is a picture of us with a glass of (very minuscule, of course) prosecco in one hand and a couple of handsome boys at our side....

One day, I think I might like to try the Mille Miglia....

Lone Tree

I think this must be one of the most famous trees in Italy. This is on a slope by the road that leads from San Quirico d'Orcia, the ancient Etruscan village a mile from San Buona Ventura where we are, to Montalcino.

On the way to Montalcino

We became a bit sick from the traveling and stopped into a Farmacia to get some cough drops and were astounded by the frescos that looked like this..

There are a million more places to see, paintings to discover, restaurants to eat in, museums to walk through, beautiful scenes to contemplate. It is not surprising we feel so at ease here. Beauty and grace is so natural here. In the countryside that surrounds us and in the way the women - and men - wear even simple jeans and a t shirt but look stunning. Simplicity and down to earth grumblings are du jour and makes your ears burn and heart laugh as you receive words of wisdom, whether you ask or not - from the local vegetable vendor, the pharmacist and the counter lady at the espresso bar. It's adorable.

Lightness of Being

We have hardly been here a week and the countryside has bloomed like fireworks into green wheat stalks and yellow flowers. Every hill rolls underneath the blue sky at just the right angle. I have often heard and of course found myself saying that the light here in the Senese is a particular light and so it is.

It isn't just the sky that has the light. Or the hills and leaves on trees. The people too and also the animals. There is Shep the Wonder Dog that I wrote about before and I am beginning to think he might be the main reason we came her. He is truly a prince and a light source for Anima, who has fallen for him in a hard way.

I have decided that everyone deserves to see Shep and his light and so I have put up a Daily Shep onto Tumblr where Ani has her Anima Trvls blog for pictures. Please click onto the link in a few days time and see the wonderful Shep collection ...you'll get a laugh at his wonderfullness and nod in agreement at his lightness of being.

The Yolk

The Girl has never liked eggs. Doesn't like them fried or scrambled or anyway at all. The only thing she will accede to is eating the white of a boiled egg. Otherwise her nose turns up.  A bit because of the fuso orario or time zone change and a bit of course because we are in a different country, our eating habits have changed drastically (with the exception of cookie eating). Lots of different food. Not anything unrecognizable really, just regular items that we are used to at home  - but with color!

Technicolor local Olive Oil

 In showing the Girl around I hear myself saying over and over again; 'taste it, it's different here', 'try it, you will like it'.

Last night, long after dinner passed when we were too lazy to go into town to eat we became hungry. Lazy, hungry and jet lagged people usually have few choices when in a state of sudden crazed hunger except for crappy room service or fast food.  Since we crazed and hungry two are, however, living in a tiny Tuscan village, we are luckier than most even when there is 'nothing' to eat.  Here food is revered, adored, eaten with gusto and respected. It is normal to eat good food. So we... Had this......

Olive Oil, Aceto Balsamico, Pane Toscano

along with this....

Uova

and for the first time the Girl, who has always said eggs are 'disgusting' finds that this is not always true after trying and then eating, all of this.....

Tata Luanna's farm frash eggs 

This simple meal was as satisfying as if we had eaten at a stared restaurant anywhere in the world.